A Modeling Agency's Job

We get asked all the time about modeling agencies and how they work. So I have take the time here to tell you about what a modeling agency is and what they do for you as a model and what they do not do for you.

1. A truly interested agent will never ask you for money.
They will never suggest to you that you need to spend money to make money. If an agent sees real potential in you that is where they will make their money, by taking a reasonable cut of the work that they get for you (usually no more than 15%). Legitimate modeling agencies do not have handling fees, signing fees, agency fees (outside of their cut of work done as noted above) or any other kind of up front before-you-can-be-signed fee.

2. A legitimate modeling agency will never ask you to pay up front for your own test shots or pay to build your own portfolio.
They will invest in you and make their money back when they get you working. They will arrange for your test shots and only expect you to show up at the shoot on time and with a positive attitude. Most agencies have agreements with photographers and make up artists whom they pay to take their test shots and even build a working portfolio for an up-and-coming model. Models do need portfolios but when an agency is really interested in a girl and thinks she can make it as a model they will not ask for any money to help build it.

3. Another thing that models legitimately need but should never be expected to pay for is a comp card.
A comp card is the models equivalent of a business card. It is usually about the size of a 4x6 photograph, has between 3 and 5 shots of a model with different looks and includes a brief bio that includes basic info like eye color, hair color, height, weight, age, and shoe size. Some aspiring models do pay for these themselves but these are girls who are looking to be signed, not models with an offer on the table. An agency that wants to develop and represent you will never ask you to pay for your own comp card or for the pictures necessary to make one. Also, along these same lines a legitimate modeling agency will not ask you to pay to set up a web profile or other online promotion tool.

4. Becoming a model should not cost you any money up front, even for things that sound legit like professional modeling lessons.
This can not be stressed enough. An agency that is truly interested in developing you as a model will not ask you to lay out any money up front. They will be looking to make money off of you in the future and will be willing to make an initial investment in making that happen. Modeling is a business and businesses mean taking risks, a legitimate agency that thinks you can work as a model will take a risk on you. This means that they will never ask you to pay for modeling classes of any kind. They may ask you to take some classes, especially runway or posing classes, but they will never ask you to pay a penny to do so. A Modeling Agency will never tell you to go out and promote yourself to find paid jobs them ask you for a percentage of the money you make. This is their job to find you paid work. This is how they make their money.

5. Finally, but very importantly, no legitimate modeling agency or agent will ask you to take nude or suggestive photographs, no matter how “tasteful” the presentation.
Photographs like this are usually highly artistic and require a certain degree of experience on the part of the model to make them work. Legitimate modeling agencies will not ask an inexperienced model who likely has lots to learn about their best angles and how to pose to take risqué photos. What they may ask is for you to take a picture in a bikini or even lingerie but these shots will be catalogue-looking, soft, somewhat innocent and not overly provocative. If an agent asks you to take a too sexy picture right away walk out the door and don’t look back.

What is A modeling Agency’s job:
If you want to become a model it’s important to know how an agency works so you get the most out of the agency’s personnel. If you want to become a model—any kind of model—it’s important to know how an agency works so you get the most out of the agency’s personnel in terms of managing your career. Modeling agencies have their own hierarchy, and staff members tend to be very protective of their duties and titles. You need to know the chain of command and follow it, or you can cause problems.

The Booker: A Model’s Best Friend
The model managers (also called agents or bookers) are the people at an agency who manage every aspect of your career in the short and long term. When you’re just starting out, model managers direct you to the testing photographers you should work with, decide what photos you should be taking, and determine what aspects of yourself you should be focusing on to sell.

When you’re ready to start working, the agent decides what clients you should work for. She sends you out to see a variety of clients and then interprets their reactions to you and directs you from there. The agent will soon realize that maybe you don’t appeal to fashion designers booking their runway shows, but that your look is attractive to magazine editors and catalogs. An agent will quickly realize your strengths and where you are in your career, and build on that.

Your booker also handles the day-to-day details of your life. She schedules all your go and sees and jobs. Clients call the booker directly, and she lets them know when you’re available to work. Unless you tell her specifically that you’re not available (say you need to go home and see your family, go to the doctor, or go on vacation), she will book jobs for you every day. Try to give your booker as much advance notice as possible when you need days off. The booker also lets you know when and where a job will be, how long it will last, who the client is, how much you will be paid, and what’s expected of you. For example, if it’s a lingerie shoot, she’ll let you know that you need to shave and get a pedicure beforehand. Bookers often handle some personal things as well. They can put you in touch with doctors, therapists, nutritionists, or personal trainers. They can help you find housing. They can also refer you to lawyers and accountants and any other professionals you might need.

The Major Booking Departments
In a small agency, the various types of models are not divided up; one set of bookers works for everyone. In large agencies, however, the agents/bookers work in several different divisions, each specializing in a different type of model.

The New Faces Department This department is in charge of developing new recruits into full-fledged models and booking all their jobs in the first couple years of their careers. The agents/bookers in the new faces department meet with the girls who come to the agency’s open calls. They help choose the models the agency will represent. They help develop a brand-new model so she has a marketable look, giving her advice on bringing out her best qualities. They also help new models set up test shoots with the best photographers and put together their portfolios.

They also introduce the model to the fashion industry and send her on her first go and sees to magazine editors, photographers, and advertisers. They are responsible for helping a girl make living arrangements if she’s had to relocate, familiarize herself with the city, learn about public transportation and get around, and set up a bank account.

The Model Management Department
After a model leaves the new faces department, she progresses to the model management department. The bookers/agents in the model management department expand on that foundation to see what type of clients are interested in her and decide how she should focus her career and what she should do next. Overall, model management’s responsibility is to help the model build a well-balanced career, with a range of editorial, fashion show, and ad clients in a variety of markets. They are responsible for figuring out what clients you should be working with and creating opportunities for you to meet those clients. If you haven’t done any ads, for example, they may send you to see an ad agency to get feedback on what they think of you. The Supermodel/Celebrity Model Department.

As you can probably guess, the supermodel/celebrity model department handles models who are of supermodel or celebrity status—people who are household names, have multimillion-dollar incomes, and are involved in projects outside modeling, such as producing their own calendars, books, TV shows, exercise videos, and other merchandise.

The Catalog and Advertising Department
This department specializes in booking models for catalog (as well as for websites) and advertising jobs. Models who are nearing the end of their careers tend to do a lot of this type of work because this is where they make the big bucks. The main difference between the catalog and advertising department and model management is that your career will be handled in a different way: to be sure you make as much money as possible, that you work as often as possible, and that you work for the best clients—in other words, to help you get the most out of the years you put in. The focus isn’t so much on getting a variety of work or building clientele.

The Runway Department
The runway department, as the name suggests, handles the scheduling and booking of models for runway and related work, including fittings, trunk shows, and boutique showings. This department handles runway bookings for all the models in the agency, as well as the careers of models who specialize in runway work.

The Television Commercial Department
Most modeling agencies partner with an outside agency that specializes in booking talent on TV commercials to handle all its models’ television bookings. Usually one booker serves as the liaison between the outside agency and the modeling agency. This person coordinates the bookings for all the models in the agency who are hired to do television commercials. He also handles related work, such as guest appearances on TV shows or even movie appearances.

Specialty Departments
Many large agencies have departments that handle specialty models. These might include but are not limited to the following:

• Plus-size models—Plus-size models are larger than regular models, but they’re healthy, tall (at least 5′8″ or 5′10″), and toned. They may be large-boned, with broad shoulders, full hips, and full breasts, and maybe a bit of a tummy. They wear a woman’s size 12 to 18. Plus-size models usually have beautiful, classic facial features and exude warmth and appeal.

• Elegant models—Elegant models are usually older models; the minimum age to enter this department is about 35. Elegant models used to work only part-time, but now some model full-time. They have a range of clients, including runway, advertising, and editorial. Most of their work, however, is modeling for catalogs.

• Parts models—Many large agencies have parts departments that represent models who specialize in leg, hand, and foot modeling. These women probably would not be regular model material—maybe they’re not tall enough—but they have at least one standout “part,” such as beautiful hands, gorgeous legs, or perfect size 6 feet.

• Male models—Some small agencies handle men exclusively, while some larger agencies have a separate men’s department. In either case, a men’s agency or department specifically focuses on the development and marketing of male models, from beginners to established models.

Other Agency Departments
The accounting department deals with all money, both incoming (from clients) and outgoing (to you, among others). When you work a job, you need to have the client sign a special voucher acknowledging that you did indeed work. (Every model is issued her own voucher book with the agency logo on it.) Then you turn that voucher in to the accounting department, and it bills the client for the work you did. The bill includes the model’s fee, the agent’s fee, and any other negotiated fees.

Promotions and publicity is in charge of promoting the agency’s name and image in the advertising and business community. It ties the agency’s name in with charity events by providing models for the event for the sake of name exposure. This department also handles press inquiries about the agency and, often, individual models.

The administration includes the presidents, vice presidents, and department directors of the agency. They run the agency, hire and fire bookers and other personnel, and rent and remodel the agency’s office. They plan for the agency’s future and troubleshoot any internal or external problems. One of the key people in the agency, and someone you’ll have a lot of contact with, is the receptionist. She greets all visitors and routes callers to the correct department. She answers general questions about the agency and deals with all the messengers who are constantly dropping off and delivering packages. Knowing who’s who is not only good when you’re with an agency, it also helps you when you go to open calls and other meetings when you’re in the process of finding an agent. Good luck!

How to Become a Female Model Over 50 Years Old

Due to a shortage of older models, successful women have no trouble booking work. Women dreaming of walking the runway and gracing the cover of fashion magazines don’t have to give up their dreams just because they’ve left their twenties behind. If you’re still moping because you weren’t discovered as a model while hanging out at a hamburger joint in high school, never fear. The modeling world is still open to women of all ages, even those over the age of fifty. Although the modeling world is difficult to get into at any age, if you have the right look, a little persistence may pay off.

Find an Agency

Modeling agencies represent models. They book them with magazines, designer fashion shows, ad campaigns and a host of other venues where models are used. When a company needs a model, it calls an agency. If you want to model, then you will need an agency. Many agencies represent older models such as Wilhelmina Ford. Before contacting an agency, it is best to have some professional photos taken. Many agencies have a formal submission policy. Wilhelmina, for example, takes electronic submissions only and they require a resume, head shot and contact information.

Education and Skills

Modeling schools and classes can teach you the basics regarding posing and taking good photographs, but it is not a requirement. Many models learn all they need to know on the job, but don’t rule out modeling schools altogether. Many schools sponsor modeling contests and competition. They also put out casting calls for models of all ages. (ref 1)Even if you do not plan on attending classes, contact your local modeling school and give them your information. Landing a model career comes down to a blend of good genetics and luck.

Keep up Your Looks

Accountants, doctors and even lawyers continue to take education classes years after getting their degrees in order to stay current in their prospective industries. By that same equation, if you wish to become a model then you must keep up your talents as well. In the case of modeling that would be your looks and your physique. Staying in shape, avoiding the sun and practicing a good skincare routine will keep you model ready. Keeping abreast of fashion trends by following blogs, reading magazines and attending fashion shows will keep you in the loop of the industry. It could also help you snag a job.

Location

Modeling work for women over fifty is largely advertising and print catalogs. As the population ages, people relate more to people in ads who look like them. No one wants to see a rail thin twenty-something woman advertising adult diapers. That being said, the advertising and print jobs reside in the same places as most of the fashion jobs, in large cities. New York and Los Angeles are the hubs of the fashion industry. Many of the top modeling agencies have offices in these locations. Becoming a model at any age is probably easier in metropolitan areas than a small town in the Midwest. If being a model is on your bucket list, then it may be time to consider a move.

10 Ways To Not Suck As a Model

(For the newbie freelance model)

1. Actually show up. You might think this is self explanatory, but I am constantly booking models that cancel last minute and offer up lame excuses such as, "I woke up with a huge pimple," "I don't have any means of transportation," or "my boyfriend doesn't want anyone else to see me".Or they just don't show up at all and never call you to say why.

2. Show up on time....Okay I admit it, I'll probably be late to my own funeral, so at least show up within 15 minutes of your scheduled appointment. I've had models try to show up over an hour late with not a single call before. One model's excuse? "Oh! I was working on my hair, so I thought it would be okay." Yeah, no.

3. Invest in a good nude bra and panty set and bring it with you to every session. Along with this, ask if you should bring any other color of undies or articles of clothing such as jeans and a plain form-fitted white tee!

4. Lose the boyfriend. No seriously. I'm all for having an escort on the day of your session; in fact, I highly encourage it, but bringing your boyfriend/girlfriend is a disaster waiting to happen. All too often I have seen arguments break loose almost turning into physical fights because said boyfriend/girlfriend got jealous. It makes for a hostile environment, and inevitably your emotions show through in your photos.

5. Notify your photographer if you have any tattoos. I love body art and have done many models with large tattoos, but nothing throws off an extensively planned and styled session more than a host of surprise tattoos, proclaiming, your love for that hipster band, your lover, your lack of religious affiliations, or the bad decision you made while partying. Just tell your photographer ahead of time, so they don't miss the mark in their planning stages.

6. Don't do drugs...mmmkay?! For real though! Oh, and you should probably limit the caffeine intake to what's recommended daily. Caffeine jitters and the inevitable crash immediately following is just a ticking time bomb to bad photos.

7. Don't create a profile on Model Mayhem and mark it, "Paid Assignments Only," and upload a handful of pixelated self cell phone photos. This tells the general viewing public 1.) you're deluded, 2.) you're likely full of yourself, 3.) you're entirely too difficult to work with already, and 4.) you're not willing to put in the work necessary to even get TFP work so why would anyone bother to pay you? You have to prove why you're worth being paid, not that you're some random pretty person. Not all pretty people can model, and that's a fact!

8. Read what you sign. If we have you sign something it's for our protection and yours. A contract is a legally binding agreement, so know what you are signing by educating yourself. Ask as many questions as necessary to know what is the expected outcome of the session and contract. This will eliminate bad business relationships in the future I promise!

9. Don't take a perfectly good photo and destroy it with Instagram filters or a crappy photoshop edit's and claim it as your own. First of all, it's stealing. Second of all, no one believes you took it because 1.) you're in it and 2.) it's not a crappy mirror pic. Share the original (with permission) and credit the proper people, and you'll make a lot of people happy. Also, don't be that person to ask for the raw files of your work so you can, "edit them yourself," because you are a "photographer" too. No. Just no.

10. Have fun! Smile! Laugh! Dance! This industry can be so harsh sometimes, but what's the point if it's not fun?

Why are Photographers so expensive?

Over the past year or so I have been asked Why are Photographers so expensive?. So here is something I have looked into many times and have now decided to post an article I have found that puts it all together better than I could have said.

Why are Photographers so expensive?

In this digital age where everyone has digital cameras, scanners and home “photo printers”, when people upload their photos to a local drug store website and pick them up a few hours later, we hear this all the time – How in the world do Professional Photographers charge $55 for an 8×10 when they cost just $1.50 at the drug store?

Here’s why.

Simply put, you’re not just paying for the actual photograph, you’re paying for time and expertise in creating the image itself. First, let’s look at the actual time involved. If you don’t read this entire page, at least read this first part.

For a two hour portrait session:

• one hour of travel to and from the session
• two hours of shooting
• 30 minutes of setup, preparation, talking to the client etc.
• 30 minutes to load the photos onto a computer (2 – 4 Gb of data)
• 30 minutes to back up the files on multiple external drives plus DVD’s
• 3 – 4 hours of Photoshop time including cropping, contrast, color, sharpening, saving a copy for print and a copy for the internet and backing up the edited photographs
• 2 – 3 hours to talk to the client, answer questions, receive their order and payment, order their prints, receive and verify prints, package prints, schedule shipment and drop package off at Fed Ex.
• For local customers, we meet them at our studio to review the photos and place their order. Meeting and travel time averages 2 hours. You can see how one two hour session easily turns into more than ten hours of work from start to finish. So when you see a Photographer charging a $300 session fee for a two hour photo shoot, you are not paying them $100 / hour. For an eight hour wedding:
• I won’t bore you with the details, but an eight hour wedding typically amounts to at least one full 40 hour work weeks worth of time. Again, if they are charging you $4,000 for an eight hour wedding, you are not paying them $500 / hour. In addition, all of the little “things” you want in the package, the album, the proofing, the prints, the parent albums, are not only expensive for the photographer to buy, but also require a lot of time by the studio to handle and produce.

Now for the expertise.

Shooting professional photography is a skill, acquired through years of experience. Even though our camera’s average $4,000-$5,000 for just the body, and most of our lens are in the $2,000 category, taking professional portraits involves much more than a nice camera.

Most Professional Photographers take years to go from buying their first decent camera to making money with their photography. In addition to learning how to use the camera itself, there is a mountain of other equipment involved, as well as numerous software programs used to edit and print photographs, run a website etc.

And let’s not forget that you actually have to have people skills, be able to communicate, make people comfortable in front of the camera – and posing people to make them look their best in a photograph is a skill all by itself.

Think of it this way – the next time you pay $100 to get your hair done, a pair of scissors only costs $1.50. But you gladly pay a lot more to hire a Professional to actually do the job.

What about the cheap studios at the mall?

Please don’t compare us to the chain store studios. But if you must, consider all of the time and work that we put into our photographs, compared to what they do. Good luck getting a two hour photo shoot at a chain store. Not to mention they won’t come to the beach! And of course, look at our work compared to theirs. You get what you pay for.

The truth is, most of the mall and chain store studios lose money. In fact, in 2007 Wal-Mart closed 500 of their portrait studios because of the financial drain they were putting on the company. What the chain stores bet on is that you’ll come in for some quick and cheap photos, and while you’re there, you’ll also spend $200 on other things. They don’t have to make money, they are just there to get you in the door.

Conclusion

We hope that those who have taken the time to read this page will have a better understanding of why professional photographs cost so much more than the ones that you get from your local drug store.

How to Build a Modeling Portfolio

Tips for Aspiring Models (and Real People, How to Build a Modeling Portfolio

Building a modeling portfolio is the first step on your path to being a model, and it immensely helps in acquiring agency representation as well. There are many ways to build your portfolio, but however you choose to go about it, you must bear in mind that your modeling portfolio is an extremely vital accessory- it can make or break modeling opportunities. Your portfolio is your first impression, and your best chance to book modeling work.



How to Build a Modeling Portfolio
It’s all about first impressions–especially in the modeling world. Your photos, comp card or modeling portfolio will always be seen before you get a chance to dazzle them with your personality in person, so it’s really important to grab the attention of agencies or clients with strong images. Set your standards very high. Use a very critical eye–whether it’s your own, or even better, someone who has experience helping models get signed to prominent agencies or chosen for lucrative gigs–when selecting any images to put in your modeling portfolio. Make sure that the pictures that you select when you build a modeling portfolio have the ability to WOW agencies and potential clients. Remember, you are only as good as your worst image. Photographers, agencies, and clients will remember your worst image.



Modeling portfolio tips:

• In New York and Los Angeles, 9×12 and 11×14 books are popular and often required.
• At the very least, purchase a book that holds 8.5×11 pages – if you are hoping to do print work, your tearsheets are likely to be 8.5×11, so you want them to fit.
• Your modeling portfolio should only consist of “Great” and “WOW” photos. Throw out the “Bad” and set aside the “Good” for your personal keeping.
• Your book markets your ability to portray different characters, age ranges, and personalities.
• Put your strongest photo at the front to grab the photographer, agent, or client’s attention.
• Place your “WOW” photos on the right pages of your portfolio and “Great” photos on the left.
• If you have images where you’re facing to one side, make sure you are facing inwards.
• Keep horizontal photos together, or print one image in two parts so it fits right side up spread across both sides of the book.
• Don’t have many photos yet? Place them all on the right sides of your book and keep the left side blank so it seems like there are more to look through.
• Don’t be afraid to include a few great black and white photos in your portfolio.
• Less is better! You will not impress with quantity – make a lasting impression with quality.
• As a new model, 6 – 12 photos is enough to present yourself to a new agency. 20 is the max – but only if they are “WOW” photos.
• Add a photo on the very last page of your book with your comp cards to give the agent/client something to look at while they grab your card.

Shots to include in your portfolio:

1. Beauty shot.
2. Smiling shot.
3. Natural light shot.
4. Editorial shots.
5. Swimsuit shot at the beach or a pool.
6. Full length fashion shot in front of seamless paper.
7. Tear sheets from print publications (not webzines). If no one has heard of it, don’t use it.
8. Very light makeup shot or no makeup shot wearing jeans and a tank top.
9. Sexy but tasteful lingerie shots (think La Perla, not Frederick’s of Hollywood).
10. Polaroids (full-length and frontal / side with hair up headshots)

“Can I bring someone with me to my photo shoot?” (Part 2)

From the first time I heard this question, "“Can I bring someone with me to my photo shoot?” my answer to everyone is "Yes". I have always felt that is is very important to make your models comfortable for every shoot and if that means bringing a guest or someone to the shoot then that is okay.

However there is exception to every rule. Many time I have been asked this question before the model comes to here shoot. "Can my Boyfriend, Husband, Friend come to the shoot." I will not deal with interruptions from Husbands, Boyfriends and alike during my shoots and I feel that most photographers feel the same way. So I have come up with this final solution to the question.

I have a Guest Policy that every model must read print out and give to their Guest and bring a copy of this policy to the shoot. So here is what it says.

Pagemaker Studios
G U E S T P O L I C Y and C O N D U C T
The following is for TF clients.

I am 'guest' friendly up to ONE other person.

Since I'm not asking to be paid at all for dealing with someone who is always a non essential part of one of my photo session, someone who may or may not present a problem, my policy is non negotiable or I'll be happy to provide a minimum 3 hour rate, then you're welcome to bring the entire family.... whichever is more convenient for you works for me.

The conduct of your 'guest' solely depends on you, the model. Distractions of any kind from anyone who accompanies you, I will without hesitation delete
every image taken or I will edit the images if or when I decide to. So a small bit of friendly advice is... Please Choose Your Guest Wisely

Your 'guest' is defined by any of the following definitions: Make-Up Artist, Hair or Wardrobe Stylist, Manager, Agent, Mother, Father, Brother, Sister, Cousin, Aunt, Uncle, Neighbor, Chauffeur, Baggage Carrier, Body Guard, Groupie, Secretary, Errand Runner, Babysitter.... pretty much anyone that accompanies you for whatever reason will be considered a 'guest'.

If someone is accompanying you, please do print out this form, bring it with you and show it to me so we are all aware there wont be any misunderstandings. Upon arrival and this form is not presented, the photo session will be cancelled or rescheduled.

Please understand that everything above is to ensure my time is not being wasted because... Its My Time That I Will Be Giving Away For Free As Well.

As of todate I have hade no problems with boyfriends, husbands, mothers or friends of the models who come for photo shoots with us.

“Can I bring someone with me to my photo shoot?”

“May I bring someone with me during my photo shoot?”

Occasionally we get this question. While my answer is a qualified “yes,” I do like to know more about the underlying reason for the question before I answer.

You can tell quite a bit by the wording of the question. Such as, “What do you think about husbands being there for the photo shoot?” Or, “Are there pros and cons to having your husband here during the shoot?” And this one, “My husband would like to watch. Is that OK?” Another is “I’m kind of nervous. Could I bring a girlfriend with me for moral support?” Can you hear the difference behind the way someone expresses the question?

People have different reasons for asking. Some want us to say, “No.” Some want us to help them come up with good reasons for not having an audience so they can explain to a husband or boyfriend why they shouldn’t come along, just in case it’s suggested. My most detested reason; some men are control freaks and these women probably shouldn’t do a nude photo shoot until after the divorce. Of course, other women are married to voyeurs and if they happen to be exhibitionists, it can work for them. And others have friends considering shoots themselves and need someone else to do it first. Then, there are the rare few who’d like someone with them for safety concerns, though that trepidation is usually dispelled after meeting us.

In another post I’ll tell you how I answer the question, “Can I bring someone with me during my shoot?’